Despite the clash between the Thai army and protestors on Apr 10, which left 23 dead and hundreds injured, STOMPer Vassili still managed to experience the joyous celebration of the Songkran Festival and feel the warmth from the local people there.
In an email, the STOMPer wrote:
"It was 2pm (Singapore time) on Apr 13, and I was in a taxi to Khaosan Road -- the backpackers' strip -- in Bangkok.
"Two cabbies had turned me down earlier. They must have thought I was just another crazy foreigner for wanting to go there.
"Just three days ago on Apr 10, a bloody street fight near Khaosan Road between the Red Shirts and the Thai army left 23 people dead and hundreds injured. The Red Shirts, supporters of ousted former leader Thaksin Shinawatra, had been occupying two major sites in central Bangkok in their bid to topple the present government.
"I was anxious and I didn’t know if I could get out of the area even if I managed to get in. But the foolhardy tourist in me beckoned me to take the plunge, and there was no chickening out.
"When I reached Khaosan Road, I saw hordes of people armed with rifles and shooting at one another. But instead of bullets, the rifles were filled with water – they were toy water guns.
"The people were celebrating the Songkran Festival (Thai New Year), and it was customary to spray water on absolute strangers and smear their faces with a brownish paint made from talcum powder.
"I alighted the taxi and joined the party and before long, I was drenched, my face painted and I was trying hard to shield my camera and iPhone to keep them from getting wet.

"As I walked down Khaosan Road, all I heard was blaring party music and all I saw was one big street party – people laughing, water-fighting and sexy girls dancing in wet T-shirts. Where was the bloody carnage that was on the television just three days ago, I wondered. And then, just around the corner, I saw a sea of Red Shirts.
Read more of STOMPer Vassili's adventure in Bangkok on the next page.
"They were not the angry mob I expected, but friendly, smiling locals. While the Red Shirts there were also celebrating Songkran, the mood was a little more sombre at a makeshift shrine they had built there, where they placed the coffins of their fallen comrades from Saturday’s street clash. Each coffin was hauntingly marked by a portrait of a dead Red Shirt supporter.

"While some people were praying, others (many of them tourists like myself), were busy taking photographs of the coffins and even posing in front of them.
"About 100 metres from the shrine, I found the aftermath of Saturday’s bloodbath and its main attraction -- the graveyard of abandoned army tanks and trucks.
"Locals and tourists, both young and old, were climbing into the tanks and overturned army trucks and on top of them, taking photographs and inspecting the formerly formidable vehicles, now reduced to mere ruins.


"The Red Shirts played the role of tourist guides, showing visitors around the area, explaining their version of the clash with the army. One Red Shirt supporter brought me around the site, showing me all the bullet holes from the fighting found on telephone booths, signposts and vehicles.
"If there was anything gory about Khaosan Road that day, it had to be the macabre photos of the dead Red Shirts pasted all over the place, one even showing a victim with a smashed skull.
"The Reds must have also realised the commercial opportunity they were sitting on, selling all sorts of wares, from Red Shirt memorabilia like T-shirts, head bands and badges, to food and drinks. One Red Shirt was even equipped with a DSLR camera and a mobile photo-printer to sell the photographs he had taken to visitors.

"I posed in army trucks and even climbed on top of a tank for a shot. In fact, the whole of Khaosan Road, had, for that day at least, turned into a street-party-cum-mini-war-museum-cum-peddling-hub.
"At the end of the day, I believe I had seen a tiny slice of the ‘real’ Thailand. It is not about the fighting, or the politics or the bloodbath. The real Thailand is about how the people can still find joy amid utter chaos, and still find the kindness to smile at strangers.
"It is indeed the Land of Smiles."